Since I kept past weekend as a low key one, mostly hanging around the volunteer house, it made sense to check out a local church on Sunday morning. Having gotten a recommendation from one of the folks running the program here, one of the other volunteers and I headed off to what was supposed to be a 3 hour service (8:30 – 11:30). At the exit of our property, we met up with a local who we had connected with the week before in a walk into town and headed to Calvary Pentecostal Church (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Calvary-Church/245315085564239).

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Due to a bit of slow walking we got there closer to 8:40. And due to a schedule change, that was about 40 minutes after the service had been scheduled to begin. We don’t know when it actually began since things here tend to start a bit later than advertised.

Given this, the singing was already moving full steam ahead, with a choir backing a leader and just about everyone in the congregation on their feet singing along if they knew the words. So we found some spots and joined in, clapping, raising our hands, and even singing when we were able to figure out the words after a few choruses.

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All of this of course was accompanied by a small band.

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Around 9:15, it was time for the preacher to take over and give his first message but as he stared, he wasn’t getting quite the response he wanted, so he turned things back over to the choir for one more song before delivering his message.

After reading the scripture (Luke 9:57-62) which was translated as he read into Nyanja, he spoke about the importance of prayer, tying the message into another change they were making in their service to have a prayer meeting during the 7-8 hour every Sunday before the 8-9 worship portion of the service.

After speaking for quite some time, if I recall right it was about 45 minutes, he transitioned into leading us into a call and response prayer. This was followed by another round of music and then a second message.

During the second message, I don’t recall the scripture on which it was based, he relayed a great story about an older man named Charlie, who as a birthday present was given the gift of his first airplane flight. And how after the flight, when replying to a question of whether or not he had been afraid, Charlie simply stated that he had never out all of his weight on the seat. The preacher used this as an illustration of how people often don’t put all of their trust in God.

As the time reached past 11 during this second message, and it was getting quite warm in the building, he asked if folks were hot, and promised to stop speaking after one more point. After probably another 15 minutes or so, he finally turned things over to announcements.

While most of the announcements were not that applicable to visitors, one that was quite sweet was the recognition of the birthday of the woman who tracks everyone else’s birthdays by calling her forward and presenting her with a cake.

Of course this was followed by more singing before we headed home pretty close to noon, if I recall correctly.

All in all, it was a great experience. However, I do appreciate the shorter services we have at home. That said, a few days after this, we were talking to one of the staff members where we are staying, and he said that his Sunday service is 8 hours long. They have the same singing and preaching, and then they pray for every member of the congregation. Compared to that, 3 seems quite short.

With the first week (well partial week due to the holiday and orientation) of volunteering behind me, it was time to play tourist for the weekend with some fellow volunteers. Given his much I enjoyed all of my safari excursions last year, it made sense to jump right in and head to Chobe located in Botswana.

In order to get to and across the border with time for a boat cruise before lunch, we needed to be up just as early as on a work day as our van was scheduled to leave between 6:15 & 6:30. The driver was a bit late, but I think all 13 of us were squished into a 9 passenger van and on the road by 7.

The boarder crossing was essay, but a bit different than when we came in from Zimbabwe last year. This time we had to exit Zambia, then get a ferry across the river where we met our guides who drove us the short distance to border control in Botswana. First there was an initial check of our passports to make sure we had not been to any countries with diseases they are trying to keep out of Botswana, then we got our official passport stamps. Just like last year, we needed to “clean” the bottoms of our shoes in some pretty mucky looking water.

After a short drive, we reached a lodge where we had a quick snack compete with real coffee and real milk – decadence after a week of instant coffee with milk powder. Soon after that we boarded a small boat and headed out into the Chobe River.

Many of the animals were the same as what I saw last year, but it is always interesting to try to add to the list as well as see the same creatures doing different things. He memorable sights of this part of the trip were

  • the elephant crossing
  • hippos lounging in the mud
  • a baby crocodile
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    And of course thee were plenty of fish eagles.

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    We then headed back to the lodge for lunch where we all gorged ourselves, most of us hitting the main buffet twice and the dessert bar at least once. After a week of white bread for breakfast, and launchers full of processed carbs such as white rice and pasta we welcomed those vegetables and feta cheese, and the meat eaters among us welcomed those selections as well. I particularly liked the warthog stew and also found the fish quite nice as I hadn’t has any for a while.

    After lunch we split into two safari land vehicles and headed out over land for more adventures. Some of the memorable moments of the afternoon were

  • the elephant greeting
  • a baby monkey
  • lots of kudu
  • warthogs sunbathing
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    But the best was left for last. With sunset fast approaching, and a need to be off of the roads by dark, our guide somehow, with his years of experience, found some lions. We saw five of them, a single female first, and then a group of four. Later we found out that they we’re part of a pride of 8.

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    Because of the time, we were only able to snap a few quick pics before heading to our campsite. Yes, those of you who traveled with me last year read right, campsite. The kind with real tents and food cooked over a fire that I recall saying I would never stay in on a safari a little over a year ago. We did have guides with us, so it wasn’t the self camp thing, but I must admit I was a bit nervous before hand about sleeping out in the wild.

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    Dinner was excellent and the campfire was delightful. But at 10 PM it was time to settle in for the night, bundling up to try to stay warm. Surprisingly I slept OK, we did have some mattress pads provided so we weren’t sleeping right on the tent floor. But around 4 AM I woke up cold and hearing something howling outside (later I found out it was a hyena) and am glad I didn’t know that at the time. Of course, even without this, there was no way I was going to get up to use the “facilities” until it started to get light.

    After a quick and light meal it was back I to the vehicles for a morning game drive. Where, amazingly, we saw more lions. This time we even saw another nursing to her cubs, very special.

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    And a lion greeting.

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    The other main sightings of the morning were lack backed jackals and of course numerous lilac breasted rollers.

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    We returned to camp for an early lunch during which we were graced by elephants right on the outskirts of the site and a striped kingfisher, who at first seemed out of place since we were quite far form water, but it turns out that this one eats insects.

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    After lunch we were back on the road for a bit more than four more hours during which we saw a tawny eagle almost carry away a francoline, but the eagle was young so its lunch got away.

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    We also saw plenty more zebra, elephants, giraffes, and different types of antelope, as well as an osprey who was migrating through at this time of year.

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    Most memorable during the afternoon was the moment at the end where we saw two young male giraffes mock sparring, with the young female standing nearby looking as if she just didn’t understand the guys – after all, boys will be boys.

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    And, even with the camping, and the hyenas, I will be going back to Chobe one more time before I leave Africa.

    Some of the most memorable parts of last years trip to Africa (other than the animals of course)’ were the sundowners. For these, we would stop mid-game drive, and be servers an array of drinks and light snacks as the sun went down. So it is no surprise that sunsets are already playing a big role in my current stay here as well.

    Towards the end of my first week in Zambia, I headed to the sunset tree with a few other volunteers. It was a pretty cool experience to climb up a ladder to watch the sunset for the branches of a baobab tree (https://simple.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baobab).

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    You could see the “smoke” from Victoria Falls (http://victoriafallstourism.org/) as well as a good amount of the surrounding countryside.

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    Then, last Tuesday some of us headed to the Royal Livingstone Hotel (http://www.suninternational.com/royal-livingstone/) to watch the sunset from there. While the drinks are quite pricey, the views are amazing. And we were even treated to some hippos playing in the water in the distance.

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    And they did provide a tray of free nibbles, to go along with the drinks (including my martini in a margarita glass).

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    With the holiday behind us, it was time for orientation and finding out about our volunteer placements. Of course this meant one more day of being able to sleep in since our session wasn’t scheduled to start until 10:30.

    During the session we learned a bit of history about the area, which was good since I hadn’t had a lot of time to read up on things like that before coming. In short, Zambia

  • gained independence in 1964
  • has 20 provinces
  • supports 76 languages
  • has 10 political parties
  • is currently under its 6th president
  • While one may think that tourism is the main industry with Zambia boasting Victoria Falls as well as a number of game reserves, it is dwarfed by copper mining which rose to the 4th highest producer in the world at one time. Unfortunately for Zambia, copper prices have dropped and thus the economy is in decline.

    In addition, low water levels (50% of normal) have caused the entire nation to enforce load sharing with everyone taking a daily 5 hour power outage. The times rotate every day which is nice so you are not always having to adjust the same activities when the power is off. Some of the main businesses have generators, due to the original expense and the fuel cost of 11 kwacha per liter (about 1.5 USD). The hope is that in 6 months there will be enough rain to enable full power to be restored.

    I am based in Livingstone, very close to Victoria Falls. Sadly, there are many street kids here due to many being orphaned when their parents die of HIV infections. And added to by more kids flocking to the city based on hearsay of begin able to get money from the tourists. Recently many schools have been opening to try to help these kids, but many still do not attend.

    We also learned that around here white people are referred to as Mzungu (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mzungu) which is not at all derogatory. Instead it is used as a friendly greeting by very friendly people whenever we are met on the streets.

    At the end if the session we got the information sour tour specific placements. I am at a private school called Nekacheya (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Nekacheya-School/240718149402486).

    Wendy

    Given that we had a day off, I ventured out with some new friends to explore the Zambian side of Victoria Falls (I had been to the Zimbabwean side last year).

    The first step was to hire a taxi. Which involves a bit if negotiation as to the rate, but we were armed with information about what it should be, so we were happy with the rate we paid. We also had to negotiate a bit at the entrance sane had heard that we were eligible for a reduced rate since we were here as volunteers, so instead of paying 140 ZMW each, we only paid 70 ZMW each and were given a ticket indicating that we had paid the child rate.

    Now it was time to explore, and explore we did. First we walked along the back side of the gorge getting some nice initial views and spotting the rainbow.

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    We then headed along the edge of the gorge, towards Zimbabwe, getting many other spectacular views and a few shows from the baboons.

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    On the return from this foray we spotted a very beautiful little bird.

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    We then we grabbed some beverages before hiking to the bottom of the gorge. On the way down we spotted more wildlife.

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    By the time we reached the bottom, the flora had changed from dessert cacti to tropical palms.

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    And at the bottom we got a new perspective of the gorge itself.

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    The hike back up was grueling, so we stopped for more beverages and snacks before heading out along another trail that provides views from father away.

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    Finally, we walked to the bridge itself, along the way, as many times earlier in the day we were asked if we were planning on going bungee jumping. The answer from all three of us was an absolutely not, never, no way. Of course we were also shown many goods to purchase (and those of you who have traveled with me before may be shocked to find out that I didn’t buy any souvenirs this day).

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    Today we will finally have orientation and tomorrow we will start out assignments.

    Wendy

    I finally arrived in Zambia yesterday and met up with the volunteer organization and headed to the volunteer hours with a number of other new arrivals.

    After finding our rooms and lounging a bit we ate lunch and then walked into town to shake off the effects of air travel and get out bearings. One of the first orders of business nice getting to town was to find ATMs that took our cards and get some cash. With that done we found the spur ale and picked up a few things some of us wanted, for me it was a small pack of hangers.

    We got back to the house just before sunset and it was time to eat again. The food has been simple but tasty. After a few more hours of getting to know folks over conversation and a game of Uno it was time to get some sleep.

    Getting ready for bed was a bit of a challenge since the light in our bathroom is burned out, but eventually I crawled into my bunk and read until sleep came.

    Today we are actually just relaxing and May head over to see Victoria Falls from the Zambia side since it is a holiday so we have to wait to tomorrow to start our volunteer programs. So right now there is still a lot of anxiousness amongst us newcomers to find out exactly what we will be doing.

    But it was nice to have time to unpack and organize things at a leisurely pace.

    Wendy

    As promised, here are some more upbeat words about my forays today.

    Around 1 PM, I headed back to the office to meet up with some folks to check out the local Saturday Neighbourgoods Market (http://www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/johannesburg/snapshots). After a very short walk, I was greeted by so any aromas it was hard to process them all. But I had had a large breakfast only a few hours before, so I wasn’t a bit hungry. So I opted for a glass of organic wine that I sipped while taking in more sites.

    After parting from my co-workers, I hopped on the “hop-on hop-off” bus, it was too late to hop off, but I got a good view if areas of JoBurg that I wouldn’t have otherwise seen and learned some more history if the city as well.

    After that, I met up with a couple of more TWers for a most excellent dinner where I was once again able to indulge in game (ostrich and springbok – both excellent). And of course there was pinotage to accompany it.

    Very satisfied, it was back to the hotel and up to the rooftop deck to see if I could spot the Southern Cross. Before dinner I had also tried, but was thinking I had seen only the fake cross, and this was confirmed with the app on my iPad during the second, and successful, attempt. That said, it was still low in the sky, and I could really only see three of the five stars, so there is still something to strive to see over the next 5 weeks.

    Now I must get off to bed and sleep a bit as I have a drive coming at 7 to get me back to the airport for my flight to Zambia where the real adventure begins. That said, I may be off the grid for most, if not all of those weeks, so be patient if you don’t see regular updates.

    Wendy

    After a pretty good night’s sleep considering I just crossed over 7 time zones, it was time to explore Johannesburg a bit.

    First up was Constitution Hill (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constitution_Hill,_Johannesburg) not a happy place at all, but one that should be seen to remind us of the atrocities of our past and make us think about things that are still happening today that are not all that different.

    While the atrocities of how some so called human beings treated other human beings are hard to https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constitution_Hill,_Johannesburg, it is imperative that all of us take the time to see them if we have any chance of truly making this world a better place.

    Below I have some photos of the sites seen here, of the prison that didn’t close until 1983, apartheid itself (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apartheid) lasted until 1994, only a bit more than 20 years ago.

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    And the stories behind the pictures are even worse: cell hierarchical structures that demean the newcomers even more than the act of wrongful incarceration, newcomers having to pick up raw sewage with their bare hands in the mess tent since the toilets overflowed regularly due to extreme overcrowding, a doctor determination how many lashes a prisoner could tolerate when sentence to receive a beating, food plates not being washed for months.

    And while as horrific as all of this is, what I find even more disturbing is the feeling that things are not better. The recent events in the US in Ferguson (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferguson_unrest), South Carolina (http://www.nbcnews.com/storyline/charleston-church-shooting) and Texas (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Death_of_Sandra_Bland) show that we really have not made much progress at all.

    Don’t get me wrong, it is nice to be in a South Africa where apartheid is in the past, but even here there is still a felling of difference. Most folks in the service industry are black, and many of the nice restaurants have a very white feel. So while it is no longer the law to be separate, separation still exits here just like in many other places in the world.

    I am stifling with how to bring this post to a conclusion and don’t thing that I can do a good job, so I am going to just stop toying and move on to a different post of other things from today.

    Wendy

    First, I finally made it to JoBurg, and have a good night’s sleep behind me. But there was a moment when it wasn’t clear that fate would play that way.

    After about 7 hours in the São Paulo airport, I headed to the gate for my flight to JoBurg. And I sat there, striking up a few conversations with others waiting as it got closer and closer to, and then beyond the scheduled departure time. Finally one of the agents came over to those of us waiting in the premier section and said that he wasn’t getting a lot of info from the pilots and suggested that we head back to the lounge to wait as it could be 5 minutes or 30. I decided to stay for a while, but after the 30 had passed, opted for the lounge.

    And then I tried to get information, and information I got – it just wasn’t consistent nor complete. I was told anything from they were finding a new plane, to it will likely (make that may – lost a bit in translation) cancel, but I wasn’t allowed to change to the other flight that night since it hadn’t cancelled yet. And the worst piece of misinformation was that if it canceled, since I didn’t have a Brazilian visa, I would have to fly back to the States rather than waiting for another flight (yes scenes from Terminal flashed into my mind). Later information changed this to that they can get provisional visas for folks when this kind of thing happens.

    Thankfully, the flight left, 5 hours late, but it left and I didn’t have to test the visa question nor did I have to go back.

    And even better, the driver I had arranged for a pick up at the airport in JoBurg was able to wait and got me to my hotel just after my check in time (so at least I didn’t have to worry about what to do if I couldn’t get into my room early as would have been the case of the flight had been on time).

    After freshening up, I headed a few blocks away to the ThoughtWorks office to say hi. It turns out that it was home office day so tons of folks we’re around and that turned into a party, complete with dancing, while the night was still young.

    Eventually hunger won over and I convinced a few folks to head out to grab some food, so we headed to a local establishment (Great Dane) which is known for their hotdogs. It’s interesting how worlds seems to come together. The name of the establishment reminded me of my college days in Madison and the hotdogs were an interesting twist with me living in Chicago. Not that I can say that I have ever had a Mac & Cheese hotdog before (another nod to Wisconsin?), but I can tell you it was quite good and really not the spot after my long journey.

    Sadly, around 9 I hit the wall and was able to catch a ride back to my hotel with a coworker where I slept quite well and am now ready to see a few sights around town before heading onward to Zambia tomorrow.

    Wendy

    I’m generally not a person who gets into this alternative celebration of Christmas, but I sure wasn’t going to turn down the gift that was dropped into my lap as I boarded my flight from Chicago to São Paulo. I had booked my ticket in business class on miles so was quite surprised when I got upgraded to first as I got on the plane. I’m not sure what all played into it, because normally with a miles ticket you aren’t eligible for upgrades. But I wasn’t going to complain.

    And it was awesome. I are so much that I was close to exploding. And I have never seen a pork chop as think and succulent as the one I was served. I also slept very well, which I am sure I would have done in business as well.

    So now I am sitting in São Paulo, sipping Starbucks since the lounge doesn’t open until noon (which will be when I can actually post this since I don’t have wifi as I write). Once it is open I’ll only have 6 more hours until my flight to Johannesburg – and it will probably start boarding an hour or so before take off, so I’ll only have 5 more hours to kill.

    That’s all for now, as my journey has just begun.

    And, yes, now in lounge and posting (after a quite nice free hot shower).

    Wendy

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